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COLD SURFER

...the surfer runs fast across the snow to spare what warmth he has, and to build as much warmth as possible. As he runs across the snow I cannot but remember that cold dry snow crushed together makes a distinct sound; it is almost like the sound of some birds i once heard in a rainforest...

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...I imagine entering the water must be a moment where a sense of surrender is mixed with complete determination. One probably has to surrender to the cold as water starts to leak into the wetsuit and the heart starts palpitateing to keep the fragile body temperature at a functional level. Only through determination can one force the physical being to obey in doing something unpleasant - and surfing in the arctic in winter certainly qualifies...

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...only 10 long minutes later is the reward give. The joy of the surf comes not only from the physical forces associated with the harmonising with the sea to get propelled up into the air and forward towards the beach but in the contrasts that the mind feels by doing something only for the joy of the moment and in a place where one at first would consider it to be impossible... 

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